253 wont start / run

[Wombat7051]

Hey guys
I haven’t been on here in a while but I have a quick question.
I have done a dingle ball hone on my dads 253
Put it back together and reset everything, put in an electronic dizzy and a rebuilt rotchester on top.
Turn the key the motor tries to fire and starts to run but only with the help of the starter, let go the key and it just stops.
Starting to really get to me, have checked timing, spark, fuel, tdc, every thing I can think of, please help

[hilta]

The resistor wire reduces volts to about 7v once the key is let go, puts 12v to coil on starting, you will need to bypass the resistor wire to alloy 12volts at coil all the time for electronic distributor to work.

[Innuendo]

The resistance wire is a solid core wire typically covered in a cotton braid.

[Wombat7051]

Ok so there are two wires from the dizzy to the coil. 1 is green the other black, the yellow from the wire harness to the positive, green to positive and black to negative. Is this right?

[Innuendo]

The yellow wire is likely the resistance wire. Put a multimeter on it and test the voltage on crank and off crank. The electronic dizzy need 12 volts all the time.

[Sandaro]

The yellow wire is likely the resistance wire. Put a multimeter on it and test the voltage on crank and off crank. The electronic dizzy need 12 volts all the time.

For standard wiring the 7v resistance wire is actually from the switch (steering column below the key) to the inside of the firewall connector. The 12v wire on start up runs in parallel from the switch (but only in start mode) to the same fire wall connector. On the engine side you've only got the yellow coming out of the connector, and it is either getting 12v on start or 7v on run. So if you haven't bypassed the 7v resistor wire for electonic dizzy you'll only be getting 7v once running

[Wombat7051]

For standard wiring the 7v resistance wire is actually from the switch (steering column below the key) to the inside of the firewall connector. The 12v wire on start up runs in parallel from the switch (but only in start mode) to the same fire wall connector. On the engine side you've only got the yellow coming out of the connector, and it is either getting 12v on start or 7v on run. So if you haven't bypassed the 7v resistor wire for electonic dizzy you'll only be getting 7v once running

Thanks mate, I gave up and put a twin point Mallory in and got it to fire.
Have a rebuilt rotchester on it is a bitch to start, once it is warm it will idle nice, but put it in gear and stalls.
I think I have a vacuum problem because I changed the car by for a Holley I had and did the same thing.
I will try with brake clean to see if I can find a leak, but this is doing my head in. I have never had a car so determined not to live.
We have a big car show here next weekend and I want to get it ready for that. At this rate may be a trailer queen for this one.
Anyway any help anyone can give I would really appreciate

[Wombat7051]

Thanks innuendo, sooner I get his done the sooner I can get him back on the van

[Sandaro]

If you have just put in the electronic cool for the first time, it needs different wiring done, as said to give 12volts all the time

[Wombat7051]

Hey all, gave up and decided to use another 253 I had. Pulled the manifold and no cross over hole, but one on the heads. Would that have caused problems?