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Thread: Help 308 wont start!

  1. #11
    It's a rockin' Big Rob's Avatar
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    Check your points haven't closed up. Sometimes after a motor has sat for a while the cam on the dizzy gets a bit dry and wears the points quickly.
    And check the points are good and clean.
    Possibly change the condenser (fooled me a few times!).
    And all the above stuff... clean your plugs, check you aren't 180* out, check and recheck the firing order (then check it again!).
    Good luck, it won't be much of a problem.
    Let us know....
    Vans.... This is the 2nd time round the block, 40 years later! talk about turning back the clock!

  2. #12
    It's a rockin' Sandaro's Avatar
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    another potential thing to check...

    I once had a problem with the wiring from ignition to coil via resistor that had me cranking like you are. To rule this out put a hot wire from + on battery to + on coil, preferably with an alligator clip (so you can unclip easily to shut engine off if it starts). Don't leave hot wire connected or run car for extended periods like this as coil will be getting more/constant volts than its built for.

  3. #13
    I have not heard about the wire to the coil before being to even in volts can you explain more I can't see how it would be any different than going trough the key
    Do as Big Rob said and she should be a runner

  4. #14
    It's a rockin' Sandaro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Beachy View Post
    I have not heard about the wire to the coil before being to even in volts can you explain more I can't see how it would be any different than going trough the key
    Do as Big Rob said and she should be a runner
    To the best of my knowledge all Sandman series holdens run 9 volt coils, more volts would burn out points. Power to the coil comes via the ignition and the wire back from ignition to coil is a resistor to drag the 12 down to 9. I had the problem that this wire no longer worked, burnt out? Anyway, there is a second wire from ignition that links with the wire to the coil that bypasses the resistor on starter to give 12 volts on start up, so in my case I was still getting spark when cranking on starter but just died the second I got off starter.

  5. #15
    I didn't know that thanks sandaro

  6. #16
    Well after a new set of plugs, re-checking the ignition timing, compression testing we got it to start on a heap of "start ya bastard" turns out it was a few things. Spark plugs were shot, but the fuel was no good, hadn't been sitting that long but there was some shit fuel in the pump and lines, but turns out main problem is the pins in the carby are stuffed and lot letting enough fuel into the chamber. so new carby and will run sweet. Once it was going mates dad had it cranked to full throttle pretty much and was only just above idling.
    Because the car it was from was duel fuel the old owner must have been running it on just gas too often and not enough on petrol.

    So thank you all for the help and hopefully what I encountered will help someone else as well.

  7. #17
    Flamenco_not_Flamingo
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wilson1985 View Post
    Well after a new set of plugs, re-checking the ignition timing, compression testing we got it to start on a heap of "start ya bastard" turns out it was a few things. Spark plugs were shot, but the fuel was no good, hadn't been sitting that long but there was some shit fuel in the pump and lines, but turns out main problem is the pins in the carby are stuffed and lot letting enough fuel into the chamber. so new carby and will run sweet. Once it was going mates dad had it cranked to full throttle pretty much and was only just above idling.
    Because the car it was from was duel fuel the old owner must have been running it on just gas too often and not enough on petrol.

    So thank you all for the help and hopefully what I encountered will help someone else as well.
    Good stuff Wilson and thanks for letting us know the outcome.

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