Big Rob's HJ Ute Project

[Big Rob]

DSC02962 small.jpgDSC02966 small.jpgDSC02968 small.jpgI played around today a bit with the front hardware for a test fit. Nothings bolted in place, just sitting there, but I needed some inspiration to keep moving with things.... I'm just trying to do something every day and eventually I'll get there.

Clutch replacement will be a bit tough for me but I'll find a way.

[Innuendo]

Lift the front clip, remove the engine and box to do the clutch, detail the engine and engine bay. Wack it back together. A good weekends work tops~!

[jason.ruff]

If you are doing this on your pat Malone and have a engine hoist that's the way to go.

[Vombil]

clutch... what an absolute stinka of a job...

in fact i vow to never do another clutch or gearbox rolling on the ground like a roach. hoist from now on

[jason.ruff]

I see repco and others are selling a plastic spline locating tool that makes the job easier, various ones. about 20 - 30 bucks, well worth it

[Valencia]

clutch... what an absolute stinka of a job...

in fact i vow to never do another clutch or gearbox rolling on the ground like a roach. hoist from now on

Yeah i said the same thing lost count on how many times ive done gearbox changes in my life mainly on the ground

[SLR_dave]

I see repco and others are selling a plastic spline locating tool that makes the job easier, various ones. about 20 - 30 bucks, well worth it

You should be able to get a clutch centering tool in steel for about the same price, if thats the tool you are describing? Has a rod that goes into the spigot bearing and a cone shaped slider to centre the clutch plate.

In terms of lining the box up, I have found a method I used the last two times was ok - once its all lined up and splines ready to enter the clutch plate, with the gearbox nicely stable on a trolley jack with good wheels, I used four long 10 '' high tensile bolts through the gearbox mounting holes carfullly into the bell housing, (cant remember the thread size) but threaded in right the way. Then without letting the weight of the box rest on the bolts, slide the box slowly forward and into the clutch plate (on the jack without it falling or wobbling) using the bolts as a guide to alignment only (not to take the weight or they'll bend and its not aligned anymore, and you could damage the bellhousing) but if done slowly, with slow, precise consideration of each movement forward (breathe in, breathe out, walk away, stetch, stop focus the mind go back and look at it method- rather than fight to the death with a bull elephant method) then you can locate the gearbox shaft in the spigot first go. (If it wobbles on your jack set up, or falls off, you bend stuff though. So warning on that.) But the neat thing is, then have a heap of spacers and washers ready to fit on the long high tensile bolts, as you get it close, remove one bolt only and fit spacers, put it back in, then the next bolt andd the next and the last.Then you can carefully tourque it into the spigot (tourqing evenly on each bolt diagonally of course), probably need to readjust the spacers twice, even three times depending what you're using. (One at a time remember - if you take two out at once you lose alignment). Once the gear box fully buts the bell housing, keep it on the jack, get the crossmember in, replace the long bolts (one by one) with the gearbox mounting bolts and touque to spec.
No guarranties, but its worked for me easier than other ways I've tried - twice now. But yeah, much easier to do out of the car. Flat bed truck with a ten tonne HIABB on the back helps too (lol)

[Vombil]

You should be able to get a clutch centering tool in steel for about the same price, if thats the tool you are describing? Has a rod that goes into the spigot bearing and a cone shaped slider to centre the clutch plate.

In terms of lining the box up, I have found a method I used the last two times was ok - once its all lined up and splines ready to enter the clutch plate, with the gearbox nicely stable on a trolley jack with good wheels, I used four long 10 '' high tensile bolts through the gearbox mounting holes carfullly into the bell housing, (cant remember the thread size) but threaded in right the way. Then without letting the weight of the box rest on the bolts, slide the box slowly forward and into the clutch plate (on the jack without it falling or wobbling) using the bolts as a guide to alignment only (not to take the weight or they'll bend and its not aligned anymore, and you could damage the bellhousing) but if done slowly, with slow, precise consideration of each movement forward (breathe in, breathe out, walk away, stetch, stop focus the mind go back and look at it method- rather than fight to the death with a bull elephant method) then you can locate the gearbox shaft in the spigot first go. (If it wobbles on your jack set up, or falls off, you bend stuff though. So warning on that.) But the neat thing is, then have a heap of spacers and washers ready to fit on the long high tensile bolts, as you get it close, remove one bolt only and fit spacers, put it back in, then the next bolt andd the next and the last.Then you can carefully tourque it into the spigot (tourqing evenly on each bolt diagonally of course), probably need to readjust the spacers twice, even three times depending what you're using. (One at a time remember - if you take two out at once you lose alignment). Once the gear box fully buts the bell housing, keep it on the jack, get the crossmember in, replace the long bolts (one by one) with the gearbox mounting bolts and touque to spec.
No guarranties, but its worked for me easier than other ways I've tried - twice now. But yeah, much easier to do out of the car. Flat bed truck with a ten tonne HIABB on the back helps too (lol)

so you lift the body off to do a clutch!? ;)

[HK1837]

Just buy an aussie 3 or 4spd from a swap meet for $20 and pull the input shaft out, takes a few minutes. Best clutch aligning tool you'll ever get for an aussie box!

[Beachy]

The other bush mechanics method that works is get a piece of wood or steel that fits into the spigot bearing then rap electrical tape around it until it get to the size of the clutch plate splines slip it into the spigot slip on the clutch plate and tighten up the pressure plate