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Thread: No tail lights or interior lights or brake lights

  1. #1

    No tail lights or interior lights or brake lights

    Hi all something very strange happened. I went to the drive inn night a month ago and everything electrically on my van was working fine, got home parked it covered it and that was it. Went to take it out yesterday started fine. But now has no parking tail interior or brake lights have checked all the fuses and all good, before I start the electrical pull down I just wondered if any one had any thoughts as to what may be the issue. I thought maybe the headlight switch. ??

  2. #2
    Sandman Driver
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    Sounds like earth connection?? I had the same drama some time ago and it was loose connection and earth.

  3. #3
    Cruiser
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    My guess is that you have a fuse (or fusebox) problem. This is the only common link between parking lights, tail-lights, brake lights, interior lights etc. in these series Holdens.

    When you say: 'have checked all the fuses and all good,", how did you check them. A visual check is not good enough.

    I've been working on car electricals for over 45 years (especially Holdens), if you count my teenage years in the back yard, before I got into the trade.

    The best tool in my toolbox is a 12V test-light, cheap & very simple. A quick test for fuses is to just touch each end of each fuse, at the contact, not the fuse's end cap. This particular fuse has continuous power, so the IGN or ACC position isn't required at the ignition switch, for this test.

    A test light is much more reliable than a multi-meter, because the light will dim if there is a 'resistive' connection, where a multi-meter will still show you a full 12V.

    The easiest circuit to follow is the brake light circuit. If there is no 12V at either end of that particular fuse, you have a major wiring issue, because this is supplied directly from the starter solenoid bolt connection. If you have 12V at one end & not at the other, you have a crook fuse or very bad connection where it sits. If you do have 12V at both ends of the fuse, go straight to the brake light switch nearby. Again, check for power at either terminal, you should have power at one of them. If you don't, again it's a simple wiring issue as the wire runs directly from the fusebox directly to this terminal. If you do, then press the brake pedal & 12V should appear at the other terminal. If 12V doesn't appear, then the switch is defective.

    If 12V does appear at the 2nd brake light switch terminal, then check for power at the brake light globe sockets (in the tail-light assembly). If there is 12V present, then only failed globes or earth are left, but my guess is that you wont have got this far, because the problem will be at the fusebox.

    Dr Terry

  4. #4
    P Plater
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
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    The glass fuse like to break the solder joints of the link inside. They look ok, but the connection is broken. Like Dr Terry said, check both sides of the fuse with a test light.

  5. #5
    It's a rockin'
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    Change the fuse before you do anything else,had the same problem,fuse looked good but it was the problem

  6. #6
    Thanks I now have a starting point, the old process of elimination.

  7. #7
    It's a rockin'
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    Probably don't have dash lights too?

  8. #8
    Sandman Driver ambientgoat's Avatar
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    I've also had issues with corrosion on the spade connectors on the back of the fuse box. So give those a check next if your fuse was ok.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by thatotherguy View Post
    Probably don't have dash lights too?
    Right you are no dash lights. Fuse box will be the starting point. And test light.

  10. #10
    It's a rockin' Big Rob's Avatar
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    Yep, it's going to be your light fuse.....
    Vans.... This is the 2nd time round the block, 40 years later! talk about turning back the clock!

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