HELP Blue 202 no spark at plugs

[Bram]

Hi all thanks for letting me join your forum

I have recently bought a Wb panel van to repair to use on a fundraising rally next year

this is the first early holden I have owned please don't hold that against me

I have a problem with the motor ok several but that's what I get for buying some bodies have done project

I changed the carby on the weekend from the varajet to a small holley that was donated

Now I have no spark at all to the plugs I have spark coming out of the coil but nothing coming from the dizzy but I had spark before I changed the carby engine would run but only at high revs and wouldn't idle

Obviously I have done something stupid a newby mistake maybe

would anybody be king enough to give me some tips on somethings I should be looking for
thanks
bram

[matt.p]

So it sounds like you may have an issue with rotor button or dizzy cap. This is presuming u have good spark from the coil.

[HZSM50]

If you have spark out of the coil then yes look for rotor button or dissy cap. Or maybe a bad HT lead fron the coil to the dissy cap.

[Big Rob]

All the above plus the condenser could be on the way out.

Check ALL connections between coil and plugs!!!!

Oh yeah, your problem isn't related to changing the carby. In fact, that in my opinion was a good move. The motor will run well once you sort out the electrical.

[Taily]

ALWAYS start at the basics first! If the engine is unknown to you internally (before now) then you'll need to establish a tune base line to work up from. Investigate any lifter or tappet noises first and get a cylinder compression check (find someone who knows how to do this and get them to either direct or do it for you). Check the manifold bolts are tight, the gap and condition of the spark plugs, rotor cap and button and condition and resistance of all leads, the carby float level is right and that the general condition of the all of the myriad of vaccuum lines in the engine bay are there and intact (and especially the temp controlled ported vac switch at the front on the drivers side) and not sucking any air. They also had a couple of issues with cam wear and fibre timing gears stripping so make sure what you have got is good.

Sounds like you may have more than one issue there. Holden sixes can tend to leak vac along the inlet manifold gasket and also the plastic vac tree/s rot away and suck air. Base gasket on the carby (check it again even though you have changed the carby already) are common and the bakelite plate underneath it needs to be in situ. Check the timing is actually set properly as the harmonic balancers are prone to slipping the outer ring (both around and/or completely off the rubber mounting) and if there is any evidence of the rubber mount starting to push out then replace the balancer immediately. The rubber often swells with oil residue around the engine and goes soft, allowing the outer ring to work its way off.

Check the EGR riser is free and that the valve butterflies are free to operate (depending upon the state the car was originally sold in), and that the stove pipe (the one from the exhaust shroud to the Thermac valve on the aircleaner) is refitted for cold (choke) operation.

The standard blue six is a great motor and they will run strong and well for a very long time if well looked after. One thing though, the engine will run smoother, stronger (yes, more midrange power and torque!!!) and use less fuel if you put the Varijet carby back on it - after getting it stripped down, checked and a kit put through it properly. Some will disagree (Rob, engarde!! ), but is it really worth the defect notice to strip the emissions controls from it?

On the other hand, the Varijet soon gets out of its depth if you start porting, cam, raising the compression etc. The reason they work so well on the standard engine is that they work to keep the airspeed (not flow which is totally different) through the carby high, which increases fuel atomisation and engine midrange torque.

[HZSanFan]

The Blue motors were fitted with electronic ignition and a common fault was the module unit. Just a thought. From memory it was under a cover just on the side of the distributor. Hope this helps. Good Luck with the project.

[thatotherguy]

Take the distributor cap off and turn the motor over and see if the rotor button turns,had the same problem with our 202,the gear on the bottom of the distributor had broken