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Thread: Duc1991 HZ Supermint Sandman

  1. #11
    Learner Driver gts62s's Avatar
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    easy enough to repair, I have done this style repair many times over the years, basically just slide a piece of folded metal in behind and weld though the rust holes, weld through primer or a zinc rich metal primer on the inside of the patch helps with longevity too

  2. #12
    P Plater
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    Good as GOLD

  3. #13
    Cruiser
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    Keep the pics and info coming on this topic if you can please Duc. Mine needs the same repair and I suspect so do others.2 panel beaters have told me they won't do this repair unless it's part of a full resray.

  4. #14
    Super Moderator Absinth's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gts62s View Post
    easy enough to repair, I have done this style repair many times over the years, basically just slide a piece of folded metal in behind and weld though the rust holes, weld through primer or a zinc rich metal primer on the inside of the patch helps with longevity too
    yep, and bodgy crap like that is why I would be very wary of buying a car someone has restored themselves. I've lost count of the amount of those type of repairs I have had to cut out over the years when doing up my cars.....

    Laminating sheet steel together by welding in a piece from behind or on top to patch a hole just creates somewhere for moisture to gather and eventually you just end up with a bigger rusted section.

    to do it properly you need to cut out all rusted metal and fabricate a replacement section that will butt weld into the hole left by the metal you cut out..... Don't lap joins, you are just asking for trouble down the track.
    4/75 HJ XX7 Sandman Panelvan ... Persian Sand currently restoring
    7/76 HX Monaro 4dr 308 4sp... Absinth Yellow and rusty as hell.. SOLD
    3/77 HX Sandman Panelvan ... Absinth Yellow and rusty as hell .. SOLD

    http://www.44gpw.info/sandman-decalssmall2.jpg

  5. #15
    Super Moderator Taily's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Absinth View Post
    yep, and bodgy crap like that is why I would be very wary of buying a car someone has restored themselves. I've lost count of the amount of those type of repairs I have had to cut out over the years when doing up my cars.....

    Laminating sheet steel together by welding in a piece from behind or on top to patch a hole just creates somewhere for moisture to gather and eventually you just end up with a bigger rusted section.

    to do it properly you need to cut out all rusted metal and fabricate a replacement section that will butt weld into the hole left by the metal you cut out..... Don't lap joins, you are just asking for trouble down the track.
    Spot on Abs....
    Nunc est bibendum...

  6. #16
    Cruiser Duc1991's Avatar
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    Thanks for your advice Absinth.

  7. #17
    Cruiser Duc1991's Avatar
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    I'll let you know how I go down the track. I would like to take all the paint off as you don't know what's hiding underneath. Already I have found a repair to the left hand tail light section.

  8. #18
    Night Rider Vombil's Avatar
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    boys some advice - keep cutting until you hit good metal... this usually means replacing a section 10x larger than what you see once you've ground down the rust showing on the outside. thats my experience anyways
    BQZ

  9. #19
    Cruiser
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    Yep you always read " has a small 5cent bubble of rust nothing major " but when you cut it out you are up for a full scuttle panel or a 1/4 . So what you see through the paint is good but what's hiding behind isn't ,my hx sedan is the best I've seen nothing in floors or scuttle( plenum area ) only some over rear arches where the mud sat and straight to boot need a rear door , dinged but can put on road if I pulled finger out , too many cars to think about and no cash. Lol

  10. #20
    Night Rider Vombil's Avatar
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    side seam and roof gutter has to to be the worst spots to have rust... very visible and double, triple, quad skins
    BQZ

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