HJ Sandman Kingswood ute XX7

[XX7SANDMN]

gotta have clip holes and no flat hard tops just instant turn off

[Innuendo]

I hate the tarp clips, they look dreadful. That said if I was restoring a genuine Sandman Ute (which I probably never will) I would put them back in place.
On this Ute I wouldn't as it looks great without them. Anyway that crappy rope/tonneau set up rubs the paint away clear back to bare metal. Alright on some work hack, but not a pristine admired example.

[Frosty]

A restorer like this will rebuild this car to hopefully make a profit unlike the rest of us who do it as a labour of love and sell it at a loss?. I think it can only be good that they see a demand for peaple wanting to buy a Sandman even if there restoration isn't perfect. Hope they get their money.

[Cocko750]

I read somewhere you could order a wb without the clips down the side ,so not sure if this could be done in earlier models but I like sides nice and clean too and all they do is rub paint. I would imagine that it would have been a special request but as most were old work utes not many without rope clips.

[Taily]

It's a stunning looking Ute. Presents nicely. Yeah it it has some repro bits, they can be corrected over time.
253 is a big no-no! The price reflects "car yard" asking. I reckon if you keen on Sandman Ute's and the colour does it for you it would be negotiating on for sure.

Real price? Maybe $27 to $32K But if they take a trade in well that helps and might just get someone over the line.

It has a lot going for it.

I'm with you on that, but I am biased as it is almost a dead ringer for mine.

Where is the XX7 stamping?

Won't have it as it isn't a Brisneyland build.

Sydney built 308 M21 XX7 HJ Kingswood ute in Absinth Yellow, a shame they left the 253 in it.... Seems a lot of cash for what seems to me to be an average, not overly correct restoration.

doesnt take a lot of skill to buy a heap of reproduction parts and stick them on a freshly painted ute. I don't see the money in it considering how much is incorrect with it.

http://www.seven82motors.com.au/car/.../#.Utn4i4xXeSN

Looking at it objectively it raised a couple of questions to me: I wasn't aware there was a difference in how the Model number on HJ Kingswood utes was displayed between plants (though I knew about the Sydney body plates not being painted). My (Melbourne) body plate reads the model as: HJ8WN80 rather than the way this one reads (8WN80JR), so I guess I've learned something else new, but what is the "JR" bit (obviously H"J", but what is the "R" after it?)



I get the interior changes like air-cond dash pad on a forced-air dash, replacement fascia/idiot lights and console/insert and a few other things like wrong decals etc (hey it would be great if all of these things were as easy to get as they were 30 years ago) but where are the big ticket Kingswood items such as the stainless trims around and behind the doors?

Probably looks like I'm being too picky, but I'm not trying to be as I do really like what they've done with it and especially if it was done for the reasons they listed. I do know they documented the build very well so there would be no surprises in it.

[wbute]

I read somewhere you could order a wb without the clips down the side ,so not sure if this could be done in earlier models but I like sides nice and clean too and all they do is rub paint. I would imagine that it would have been a special request but as most were old work utes not many without rope clips.

Urban myth I would say. Tonneau cover was not standard unless it was a Kingswood.
Paint rubbing off is part of owning a ute, bit like sitting in a dust ball if you drive a van on a dirt road.

[RAEME]

I hate the tarp clips, they look dreadful. That said if I was restoring a genuine Sandman Ute (which I probably never will) I would put them back in place.
On this Ute I wouldn't as it looks great without them. Anyway that crappy rope/tonneau set up rubs the paint away clear back to bare metal. Alright on some work hack, but not a pristine admired example.

A lot of my mates used to have their tarps made with extra inserts under the edges where the tarp sits on the paint work. Did a good job of reducing the paint rubbing not quite eliminating it but gave it a longer life span.

[HK1837]

Don't have an issue using some 'glass on the inside and use filler in the holes. But welding them means its almost impossible to put them back, hence why it is ruined for me. I'm guessing they are welded.

[Innuendo]

Looking at it objectively it raised a couple of questions to me: I wasn't aware there was a difference in how the Model number on HJ Kingswood utes was displayed between plants (though I knew about the Sydney body plates not being painted). My (Melbourne) body plate reads the model as: HJ8WN80 rather than the way this one reads (8WN80JR), so I guess I've learned something else new, but what is the "JR" bit (obviously H"J", but what is the "R" after it?)

That is Holden adding confusion. The R would typically mean engine type I.E: 253 if reading off the VIN thin tag.
On this plate it means Right Hand Drive. At a guess this plant was likely building the LHD export models also.

[Absinth]

I get the interior changes like air-cond dash pad on a forced-air dash, replacement fascia/idiot lights and console/insert and a few other things like wrong decals etc (hey it would be great if all of these things were as easy to get as they were 30 years ago) but where are the big ticket Kingswood items such as the stainless trims around and behind the doors?

Probably looks like I'm being too picky, but I'm not trying to be as I do really like what they've done with it and especially if it was done for the reasons they listed. I do know they documented the build very well so there would be no surprises in it.

I don't get the changes and maybe I'm too picky but the seller offers a restoration service and works with another business that calls themselves "Mr Restoration" ... And.... This car was restored by one of their employees so you would think they would be more particular with it..... Obviously not...

Original parts aren't that hard to find just yet.... I have four HJ consoles and around 25 HQ/HJ console lids and currently have 9 HJ GTS dash Fascias and they are coming up on ebay all the time. The whole interior of that car is reproduction which is a cop out on restoring a Sandman or Monaro... The GTS steering wheel is one of the old Rare Spares ones that has the totally different hub. They could have at least put a silver dash fascia in it to be somewhat correct!!!

the engine bay .... Why put a 5.0L sticker on a 4.2L engine??? Why not source a 5.0L engine for it rather than leave the 4.2 in it.... At a minimum this in itself is a $6000 fix. Is the gearbox still an M21 or has it been changed to suit the 253.... Same with the diff. Where is the metal finger guard over the radiator? Matt black paint sprayed on inner guards and firewall looks crap.... Why paint the wiper motor black? Why is the bonnet release cable black and the bonnet catch plate black? Heater hoses are wrong and 3 way tap isn't where it should be. Wrong master cylinder... Plenty of correct ones available from wreckers that are re-buildable.

Kingswood trim missing, Kingswood badge and engine size badge missing from tailgate..... Why does tailgate have panelvan rubber seal on it? Rain water won't escape if parked up hill. Rear tray should be body colour not colourflek.

description says gearbox has had new seals.... So not rebuilt..... Brakes rebuilt ... WHERE NEEDED .... HmHmm

Appears they have just washed the undercarriage and sprayed the lot with matt black paint.....

fully restored .... I don't think so.... $40,000 .... Not worth it for what I consider a rebuilt car .... Not restored.

yeah.... It looks nice .... I'd happily own it ..... For half the asking price!!! Do I hope they get $40,000 ... Absolutely ... Means mine will be worth more when it's finished to...