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  1. #1
    Certifiable ozbox's Avatar
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    Steering columns explained

    Arent these a fun item for interchange..

    Hows about anything that people are confused with just ask me if i can explain..

    ok..to keep this relatively simple we will only be dealing with manual or auto floorshift type steering columns...mostly refered to as blank columns...
    HQ..there is technically 2 types of blank columns for hq...first style spans 1971 to 1973 and maybe early 74 but ive never verified that.
    differences are only in the plastic blanking shroud and its associated mounting bracket on the earler columns..in the pics below you can buy a new shroud from rares fro the late hq and the hj to wb but not the early hq..i will be posting a pic of the early column mount bracket but the nuclear reactor on my camera ran out.



    Top ignition pot is the same hq and hj and so is the ignition barrel and the cog and rack n rod..





    HQ columns do not have the floor mounting plate welded to them rather they go through a rubber seal in the floor mounting plate.
    HJ..the hj column has a different shroud to the hq but is the same shroud as hx hz and wb commercial..
    the top ignition pot and ignition barrel is the same as hq and the column mounts through the floor plate the same as hq.the blinker switch is the same as hq..



    HX..the hx column changes a bit from hj..the main column is welded to the floor mounting plate,so no more rubber..the top pot also changes because of the blinker switch which has the wipers mounted to it.so it has a large square cut out..the ignition barrel is the same as hq and hj..





    HZ..the hz column is exactly the same as hx except for the whole top pot where the ignition barrel goes in changes and it has its own unique ignition barrel and top pot from hq hj hx..with the ignition barrel in the top pot it is easily to identify from hx...hx is chrome with double finger hook and hz wb is black with single finger hook.





    WB..is the same as hz in every sense except it has a hole for a hazard light knob sticking out the left side of the pot and the actual blinker rocker mechanism is different because of the hazards..
    The blinker switch mechanism/wiring is the same from hq to hz and will accept the hq hj arm and also the hx hz wiper/switch arm..wb is different because of the hazard light switch..
    Ignition block which is attached to the side of the column and your wiring plugs into it all interchange..
    the cog and rack and rod are the same hq hj hx and then changes for hz wb.....note in the pic that the straight cut teeth is hz wb and the angle cut is hq hj hx..





    There is a couple of reasons for columns not working correctly..the columns are collapsible in 2 places..the outer casing which has a mesh that collapses and the inner shaft which has a plastic pin that breaks so it will collapse..hitting the centre shaft with a hammer to get the steering wheel off will damage a column..always use a puller..
    If your whole top pot is moving side to side it will either have loose screws that hold the ignition housing pot to the column or the column is cracked and and the metal is splitting...
    When putting a steering column back together the most common problem is that the centre shaft has moved downwards and you will not be able to get the circlip to where it should clip in..to fix this problem get some vice grips and pull the shaft up..in my experience more than 90 per cent of columns are damaged in one way or another but its all fixable..
    When removing a column always undo everything at the bottom first especially in hx hz wb as they are a welded plate to the floor and when you undo the 4 bolts under the dash on these the weight will bow the column which is collapsing the mesh..



    Pic above is the mesh section which is designed to collapse..this one is rooted.



    Pic above is of the mounting part for the pot and where it will start to crack and seperate..



    Pic above is where it will seperate as well and it will also crack sideways in more extreme cases..



    Pic above is the centre shaft that i am refering to and these 2 are both hq to wb centre shafts except one is partly collapsed which of course becomes a problem if you are trying to put a column back together..



    Pic above is the plastic pin refered to that breaks and allows the centre shaft to collapse into itself..



    Pic above is shown as this is usually how much you are short when the column wont go back together..



    Pic above is the difference between a hq to hz and a wb blinker switch..the one on the right is wb and has the provision for the hazard light switch knob..



    This picture above is a shot of the top pot of the steering column and is what it looks like when you remove your blinker switch to undo or tighten the screws i was talking about earlier...but it is also how you remove the ignition..see the slot?...you need to stick a steak knife or small screwdriver into this with the key in the off..not lock but off position...barrel should come out...if not hold tongue in a different position and persevere with it..



    This picture above is what happens when you let your mate (who has no friggin idea..onya george)... try to fix your top bearing by bashing the utter crap out of it...one very collapsed column..
    Last edited by Alien DNA; 01-06-2018 at 03:29 PM.

  2. #2
    Super Moderator Absinth's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ozbox View Post
    ignition barrel in the top pot it is easily to identify from hx...hx is chrome with double finger hook and hz wb is black with single finger hook.
    Greg, there is an early and a late style HZ ignition barrel. Early ignition barrel has a Alloy (polished??) finish and the finger tab is a different shape to the later black ones...

    Early HZ ignition


    Late HZ ignition
    4/75 HJ XX7 Sandman Panelvan ... Persian Sand currently restoring
    7/76 HX Monaro 4dr 308 4sp... Absinth Yellow and rusty as hell.. SOLD
    3/77 HX Sandman Panelvan ... Absinth Yellow and rusty as hell .. SOLD

    http://www.44gpw.info/sandman-decalssmall2.jpg

  3. #3
    Certifiable ozbox's Avatar
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    Yes there is but they interchange between themselves from memory..i will have to go and dig one out of a column to answer that question i think..have you got one out of a pot sean?...:errf:

    I said they were fun for interchange..ive got more pics to take,camera battery died and a few things to edit on this one before i will be happy with it..

    I would have added this to the main post but it wouldnt let me...HOW TO REMOVE THE TOP POT OR IGNITION HOUSING..
    Once you have got the column dropped down from the dash you will see the ignition block where th ignition rod runs too..remove the 2 bolts/screws and twist to release the rod from the slot in the ignition block..



    Then at the top pot at the steering shaft you will need to remove the circlip..i just use a flat head screwdriver and give it a quick wack sideways which will release it enough to get the screwdriver under the edge and lever off..





    Then undo the 4 screws holding the top pot on and slide it off..



    This pic is of the encased top bearing and is usually what breaks therefore letting your steering shaft and steering wheel pop out..this top bearing is in excellent condition..



    Once you have got all this off it is a reversal to put oit back together bearing in mind what i said earlier about the centre shaft moving and not being able to get the circlip back on...also check that the top of the column is not cracked/broken..

    Last edited by Alien DNA; 01-06-2018 at 03:34 PM. Reason: could not add it too first post..so i put it here..

  4. #4
    Super Moderator Absinth's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ozbox View Post
    have you got one out of a pot sean?...:errf:..

    As a matter of fact I do...



    4/75 HJ XX7 Sandman Panelvan ... Persian Sand currently restoring
    7/76 HX Monaro 4dr 308 4sp... Absinth Yellow and rusty as hell.. SOLD
    3/77 HX Sandman Panelvan ... Absinth Yellow and rusty as hell .. SOLD

    http://www.44gpw.info/sandman-decalssmall2.jpg

  5. #5
    Certifiable ozbox's Avatar
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    thankyou sean,saves me rootin around finding one...so bar the colour difference that still only does hz and wb...i reckon they would be getting very thin on the ground as the replacements are black..

  6. #6
    Super Moderator Absinth's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ozbox View Post
    ...i reckon they would be getting very thin on the ground as the replacements are black..
    The very reason I removed it from my HZ sedan rolling shell before selling it....
    4/75 HJ XX7 Sandman Panelvan ... Persian Sand currently restoring
    7/76 HX Monaro 4dr 308 4sp... Absinth Yellow and rusty as hell.. SOLD
    3/77 HX Sandman Panelvan ... Absinth Yellow and rusty as hell .. SOLD

    http://www.44gpw.info/sandman-decalssmall2.jpg

  7. #7
    Decal Demon stickthis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ozbox View Post
    thankyou sean,saves me rootin around finding one...so bar the colour difference that still only does hz and wb...i reckon they would be getting very thin on the ground as the replacements are black..
    YEP SURE ARE!!! you want to sell me one Greg?
    Owner (Jason) - STICKTHIS Automotive Decals and Stripes

    HX Sandman Panelvan. Mint Julep. Complete Factory Resto.
    HZ Sandman Ute. Saddle Tan Metallic - Customised. Galaxy Blue.
    HZ GTS. Palais White. Next Resto From 99% NOS Parts.
    HSV GTO Coupe - Highly Modified
    VR SS into a VS Supercar Castrol Perkins Ingall 1997 Tribuilte build

  8. #8
    Learner Driver
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    Selector rod removal

    Hey Sean,

    can you tell me how to remove the ignition selector rod on a wb. I've removed the 3 bolts that hold the column up and detached the ignition switch. Do i have to remove the steering wheel, coffepot etc or can i detach it from the other end?

    Thanks for any help.
    Andrew

  9. #9
    Cruiser
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    Quote Originally Posted by ozbox View Post


    Greg or someone with an HZ can you tell me which of the 2 connectors at the bottom the tan brake warning light wire goes to . They are labelled G1 & G2 with G2 being at the bottom in this pic


    thanks in advance

    Leroy

  10. #10
    Certifiable ozbox's Avatar
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    yes you have to remove the top pot to release the ignition actuation bar...and also the key and barrell..

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