Extra notes on rebuilding steering columns

**SLR_dave** · 19-08-2013, 02:40 AM

Originally Posted by http://www.mysandman.com.au/forums/showthread.php/561-Steering-columns-explained[/url

But are the column body's interchangeable?

But are the column body's interchangeable?

Not all of them are interchangeable, some bits are, some bits are not. The top bearing housings (houses the indicator stalk) are different, it's not just that from HX onwards they have the combination wiper/washer indicator stalk; the angle of the ignition barrel changes somewhere between HX and WB (from memory), and also some (maybe all) of the the earlier column body's will not fit properly on to the top bearing housing, (almost certainly by design). They are very close, but when you fit the parts together you can see that they don't align properly, or (for instance) you will see that the steering lock cam is going to foul the barrel, or the top four bearing housing screws do not align properly with the column. Looking carefully at the pictures that ozbox has povided, the very slight change of angle on the ignition barrel can be seen.

A really important thing for rebuilders that can save time and money is the correct vice points for holding the columns when you dismantle and rebuild them.

To hold the steering column in a vice so that you can disassemble it easily you remove the 4 set screws that secure it it to the dashboard mounting bracket (the piece with the three bolts that attach to under the dash), thread 2 of the set screws back into the steering column and grip these gently in the vice. Now you can work on the column without crushing it.

This is really important as (obviously) the steering column is designed to collapse, and when rebuilding one, maintaining this safety feature is pretty key.

Using the correct vice points will help prevent damage to the collapsible mechanisms.

When rebuilding one from several, I'd do this with donor columns as you dismantle them for parts, even the ones you think you only need non crushable parts from, because you may decide later on that you do need to use parts from a donor column differently if the way you had it worked out if it doesnt fit. Thats how it happened for me, anyway. (They really look identical until you start matching/fitting the parts up, there's only millimetres in it).

A couple of points which may help are that;

The top bearing itself is not designed to be easily replaced, the Zamec casting of the top bearing housing has a lip which is bent over the bearing outer, it will probably/definately crack off if you try and change the top bearing - the idea I think was to replace the whole top bearing housing, but I dont think you can get em anymore, on top of that you need the right one to suit the column you are building.... you might be better off not trying to change the top bearing if you can get away with it.

If you don't have/ cant get a serviceable black top bearing housing that suits, and need to sand back and repaint a different coloured one, it can be done, but because the metal is Zamec, it is notoriously difficult to paint, but it can be achieved with prepsol, and several coats, needs a bit of patience, I used wattyl rust kill gloss black (not to stop rust, but for adherence and finish, 4 coats, 24 hours drying and sanding in between).

Of the ignition barrels available, some have a different angle on the turn of the cam (HX to WB I think) so you might want to experiment with the ones you already have so you can match it up before you shell out dollars for a new one bought on spec.

- you cant make the non matching parts fit of course. Interestingly, I once took apart a column with damage identical to that shown in a pic on ozboxes thread, identical! On the one I saw, it was obviously the result of somebody deliberately jamming a non matching column case into the top bearing housing by cutting and bending it - most seriously uncool ! (and an identical result).

Whilst doing all this of course you want to consider the collapse mechanism and not add anything that would foul it, and um, dont drop the steering rod on it's end (yes I have been guilty of that - it does collapse lol) - it's still not rocket science, but its getting a little closer.

As far as I can remember the bottom mounting plate on WB is a different shape from HQ-HZ. I don't know if there is a way to interchange the parts at the bottom of the column, I am just going off memory here.

**mook** · 19-08-2014, 10:02 PM

I know this is an old thread. But has anyone on here ever replaced a top bearing as the bearings are now available from rare spares.
Cheers guys, I can't find any info anywhere.

I have also contacted rare spares to see what they say on fitment of a new bearing. So I'll update for future advice if I get any.

**mook** · 21-08-2014, 05:23 PM

Ok, had a call from rare spares today. They recon glue the top bearing in with urethane.. Well here goes.

**stickthis** · 21-08-2014, 06:09 PM

its easy mook.

you will notice when you remove the old bearing there is 3 or 4 press marks in the housings on the outside of the bearing. get a die grinder. remove the pressed down pieces on the housing.

Then the bearing will come out without breaking the housing.

Tap the new bearing in. Then get on the housing on the outside of the bearing and get a centre punch and press it over like it was. Just do it in different spots.

Job done

**gregbark** · 19-09-2014, 09:56 AM

The lower bearing and plastic retainer are under tooling by Rare Spares at present and hopefully samples will be ready for testing soon. If approved supply should be early 2015. The top bearing is available now, and shows in the parts book as a replacement part, but doesn't mention about the rolling over of the edge as originally done. Both bearings were originally supplied from overseas but when production stopped recently they have had to be remade by Rare Spares.