Help Needed with 202!!

**wbute** · 11-07-2013, 01:37 PM

Do Varajet carbs have a anti diesel solenoid? If so that could be the running on problem. The rattle isn't pinging caused by the timing is it?

**JDT** · 11-07-2013, 03:59 PM

Almost impossible to be related to oil pressure. If this were the case big ends would fail way before a lifter rattled. My guess is the engine is pinging due to a lean mixture or timing issues. Have a good spray around the intake manifold and carby base with some carby or brake cleaner. Engine will drop rpm or stall if there is a big enough vacuum leak. Any noticeable drop in rpm is a problem. Also make sure you have the vacuum advance line removed and blocked from the distributor when you are checking the timing. Also make sure that the vacuum advance is working and that the mechanical advance is working. Engine idle speed should be set by adjusting the anti dieseling solenoid not the adjustment screw on that dirty old varajet carby. The adjustment screw on the carby is for setting fast idle speed in relation to the choke. And yes camshaft has to be replaced at the same time as lifters. Like not wiping your a#*e after going to the toilet. You just don't do it. Throw the varajet in the bin where it belongs.

**83 WB_Ute** · 11-07-2013, 09:46 PM

Originally Posted by wbute

Do Varajet carbs have a anti diesel solenoid? If so that could be the running on problem. The rattle isn't pinging caused by the timing is it?

As far as I am aware, they do have an anti dieseling solenoid.. The one that's on it works, but I've got 2 other Varijets here that I can pinch them off to test and see

And I'm 99% sure it is not pinging.. I've heard pinging before, and this is a completely different noise to this.. and besides, it was ratting/tapping the same amount before when the timing was spot on before.. :/

Originally Posted by JDT

Almost impossible to be related to oil pressure. If this were the case big ends would fail way before a lifter rattled. My guess is the engine is pinging due to a lean mixture or timing issues. Have a good spray around the intake manifold and carby base with some carby or brake cleaner. Engine will drop rpm or stall if there is a big enough vacuum leak. Any noticeable drop in rpm is a problem. Also make sure you have the vacuum advance line removed and blocked from the distributor when you are checking the timing. Also make sure that the vacuum advance is working and that the mechanical advance is working. Engine idle speed should be set by adjusting the anti dieseling solenoid not the adjustment screw on that dirty old varajet carby. The adjustment screw on the carby is for setting fast idle speed in relation to the choke. And yes camshaft has to be replaced at the same time as lifters. Like not wiping your a#*e after going to the toilet. You just don't do it. Throw the varajet in the bin where it belongs.

If anything, its running rich rather than lean.. I'll give the vacuum trick a go on the weekend and see if a leak has developed somewhere

**Innuendo** · 11-07-2013, 10:45 PM

Best tip I can give you.
Take it to a mechanic and have them advise and quote.
Diagnostic via web forum is unlikely to be the answer.

**Vombil** · 11-07-2013, 11:25 PM

Originally Posted by Innuendo

Best tip I can give you.
Take it to a mechanic and have them advise and quote.
Diagnostic via web forum is unlikely to be the answer.

keep the faith young lad. a dollar saved is a dollar earned

**wbute** · 12-07-2013, 07:57 AM

Another possibility is leaking extractor gasket mistaken for lifter noise.

**SLR_dave** · 12-07-2013, 09:01 AM

I think I'm with Innuendo on that one, it sounds like more than one issue to me. First is that the motor wants to 'run on', not a good situ, timing?... possibly, second is she 'rattles'; it does sound like timing and detonation, maybe... but it might be as simple as an inlet manifold leak.... grab hold of the inlet manifold and see if it's loose, sometimes they can do this after miles and miles, and you just assume its the same as when you did it up.

The standard (olds skool) diognostic tool for an engine like this is a vacumn guage, but if you've gotta be travelling in a week or so, and dont have one at hand, a trip to someone like dynatune will be faster and cheaper, as long as they are not gonna charge more than 50 bucks, and know you just want diagnosis.

**wbute** · 12-07-2013, 10:27 AM

If you can find a decent dyno tune place that is......

**buck** · 12-07-2013, 10:29 AM

also one thing not mentioned, is fuel quality, a couple of blokes at work are running that shit E10, their cars are rattling there heads off and way down on power, do people not realise that these old cars are designed to run on plus 96 octane. the amount of damage that E10 does to heads,valves, piston and fuel systems is unbelievable. i always run my WB on atleast 95 octane.

**HK1837** · 12-07-2013, 11:24 AM

I always used E10 back before everyone had it (from Bogas in Newcastle ares) on my red 202 in my old WB tonner. It used to ping its head off on premium (95) but ran fine on E10 which is also about 95 octane. Running straight ULP it used to get all sorts of cr@p build up on the plugs but with Ethanol fuel it was always clean as a whistle. The denatured Ethanol (basically metho) cleans the combustion chambers, so there is no hot-spot buildup to make it ping.

This is of course back when E10 sold by Bogas was good stuff, sometimes you get cheap rubbish. Although my Cross8 was tuned for 95 or E10 and ran fine on both, developed good power on both, just used a little bit more fuel on E10 but not 10-15c/litre more that you pay for 95. It pinged its guts out on normal ULP. My SR5 Hilux actually runs better and gets better economy on E10 than it does on straight ULP or 95 octane ULP. I tend to buy it from high volume sellers though.