Damn big blocks

[HK1837]

I took the 454 block to the machine shop yesterday. These things have a propensity for spinning bearings, and this one has. It is getting a caustic bath so it can be meaured. Looks like I have 2 x options if the tunnel can't be saved in its current location:

Machine the caps down 10 thou, and align hone the crank tunnel 5 thou (0.125mm) closer to the camshaft. Then I just buy a 5 thou shorter timing chain set. This shouldn't bother the front and rear seals but not sure what detriment it has to the tranny's centreline. OR

I can buy 20 thou oversie bearings for the front 4 x mains, so get those 4 x journals machined out 20 thou oversize (20 though bigger on the outside of the bearing), and leave the rear main as it is. Problem is you can only buy these oversize bearings in 10 and 20 thou undersize (on the crank journal, ie inside of the bearing). I haven't measured the 427 crank yet but I think it is 10 thou on the rods and standard mains, ground ready to go. It may be 10 thou mains though.

Any thoughts or insights?

I really want to run this block as it was a crate motor, hence there is no pollution gear problems (in NSW i'd have to run 1995 US pollution equipment if it was a production block). It is very hard to find a std bore pre 1972 427 block otherwise and the pistons i'm running are only available in +0.030 and +0.060 (forged L88/ZL-1). I don't want to run a +0.060" engine.

[Alien DNA]

Is that a gen6 BB you're machining Byron? If so, bare blocks are a pretty easy to come by on eBay!!

I'm still umming and ahhing wether or not to go BB in my van....but keeping the weight down over the front axles gets expensive with aluminum intake, heads, water pump and radiator. My mate did that and JUST scraped in on the scales.

Good luck with it mate

[HK1837]

1994 Gen V block. Problem with bare blocks is they are from production cars and hence it means I have to fit 1995 onwards USA pollution equipment. This was a crate motor and hence not appicable. All big blocks have to be at least align honed anyway, so cost will be the same.

I was going to run alloy heads, but just 5 minutes ago I just won a pair of 1974 LS7 990 cast iron heads on Ebay for $305. These are the same open size chambers and valves as the original Winters foundry heads on 1969 L88 and ZL-1, but have bigger intake runners (325cc over 290cc). Will give 11.8:1 with the L88 pistons.

Combination is:

Gen V block, TRW 2308 pistons (replica L88), new scat rods with ARP 7/16" bolts, forged 427 crank, 11" billet flywheel, all balanced.
990 cast heads, cleaned to match intake.
COPO 427, L88 Winters intake manifold with original reproduction L88 850cfm double pumper Holley.
Cam I have isn't quite as big as the L88/ZL-1. It is still a solid lifter cam, the L71/L72 cam from the 425hp iron headed 1968 427. Just slightly less aggressive.
I have to get some special Victor Reinz gaskets to allow the MarkIV heads to fit the GenV block.

This engine should make close to original L88 hp, possibly around 450-525hp at the flywheel. Will be too much anyway for a manual HK GTS327 with 3.5 gears and 14x6 rims with skinny tyres. I have even got hold of aftemarket 427 badges that fit exactly where the 327 badges go!

[mauser]

bit hard to drive something like that as a manual.... My mate put a 454BB in a HQ and you stand on it with a Turbo400 and suddenly you have spun 180. Probably much easier with an auto. Would the powerglide work?

Mauser

[Alien DNA]

That's going to be a freaky ride on those skinny tyres Byron Gonna need some tweaking to compensate the handling with all that extra weight up front

Interesting project though

[HK1837]

M22 Muncie. I hate powerglides, TH350 are too weak for a 427 and TH400 won't fit. Remember this is a GTS327 type 1 in Warwick yellow. One of the first 3 or 4 made. So I don't want any floor or tunnel mods. Muncie is the only one that will fit. I still have the 3.5:1 XY GT-HO 9" that came with the red car so i'll use it until it breaks, and replace with a Moser 12 bolt that won't break.

[mauser]

What and run some type of hydraulic clutch setup? I can understand you dont want to modify the body for a large gearbox. Powerglides are ok if you just want to be the fastest person to 100k. :-)

All 6" cheesecutters and tramp rods for you then.

Were tramp rods standard on a HK327?.... I remember one back in the day having them and it was stock looking machine at the time. They took the 327 out of it and put it in an LJ GTR at the time and pushed the body out the back.



Mauser

[Vombil]

you speak a different language with this motor stuff. straight over my head! sounds pretty trick tho

[Taily]

5 thou with a Rock Crusher wont hurt too much. Not sure if you can get offset dowells (or even need them for 5 thou), I seem to remember we used to get 10 thou as the first size available - have been out of that part of the industry for too long to clearly recall them, but think they were specified for an auto (more critical with the flex plate/torque converter alignment) so as not to shag the converter seal, than the front input bearing of a manual box, which can take a slight mis-alignment much better.

Nice torquey weapon... sideways in 4th with a dip of the clutch.

Keep the clutch splines well greased and the spiggot bearing "only just" greased.

[HK1837]

Original HT/G GTS350 11" bellhousing, fork, clutch slave and HK 3spd master and pipe. Hurst Indy modified to come out the factory holes. Shortened tonner tailshaft. I'll probably run big hoppers brakes and 18x8 V2II CV8 rims painted black and 15" black rims other times.

What and run some type of hydraulic clutch setup? I can understand you dont want to modify the body for a large gearbox. Powerglides are ok if you just want to be the fastest person to 100k. :-)

All 6" cheesecutters and tramp rods for you then.

Were tramp rods standard on a HK327?.... I remember one back in the day having them and it was stock looking machine at the time. They took the 327 out of it and put it in an LJ GTR at the time and pushed the body out the back.



Mauser