Damn big blocks

[HK1837]

I took the 454 block to the machine shop yesterday. These things have a propensity for spinning bearings, and this one has. It is getting a caustic bath so it can be meaured. Looks like I have 2 x options if the tunnel can't be saved in its current location:

Machine the caps down 10 thou, and align hone the crank tunnel 5 thou (0.125mm) closer to the camshaft. Then I just buy a 5 thou shorter timing chain set. This shouldn't bother the front and rear seals but not sure what detriment it has to the tranny's centreline. OR

I can buy 20 thou oversie bearings for the front 4 x mains, so get those 4 x journals machined out 20 thou oversize (20 though bigger on the outside of the bearing), and leave the rear main as it is. Problem is you can only buy these oversize bearings in 10 and 20 thou undersize (on the crank journal, ie inside of the bearing). I haven't measured the 427 crank yet but I think it is 10 thou on the rods and standard mains, ground ready to go. It may be 10 thou mains though.

Any thoughts or insights?

I really want to run this block as it was a crate motor, hence there is no pollution gear problems (in NSW i'd have to run 1995 US pollution equipment if it was a production block). It is very hard to find a std bore pre 1972 427 block otherwise and the pistons i'm running are only available in +0.030 and +0.060 (forged L88/ZL-1). I don't want to run a +0.060" engine.

[Alien DNA]

Is that a gen6 BB you're machining Byron? If so, bare blocks are a pretty easy to come by on eBay!!

I'm still umming and ahhing wether or not to go BB in my van....but keeping the weight down over the front axles gets expensive with aluminum intake, heads, water pump and radiator. My mate did that and JUST scraped in on the scales.

Good luck with it mate

[HK1837]

1994 Gen V block. Problem with bare blocks is they are from production cars and hence it means I have to fit 1995 onwards USA pollution equipment. This was a crate motor and hence not appicable. All big blocks have to be at least align honed anyway, so cost will be the same.

I was going to run alloy heads, but just 5 minutes ago I just won a pair of 1974 LS7 990 cast iron heads on Ebay for $305. These are the same open size chambers and valves as the original Winters foundry heads on 1969 L88 and ZL-1, but have bigger intake runners (325cc over 290cc). Will give 11.8:1 with the L88 pistons.

Combination is:

Gen V block, TRW 2308 pistons (replica L88), new scat rods with ARP 7/16" bolts, forged 427 crank, 11" billet flywheel, all balanced.
990 cast heads, cleaned to match intake.
COPO 427, L88 Winters intake manifold with original reproduction L88 850cfm double pumper Holley.
Cam I have isn't quite as big as the L88/ZL-1. It is still a solid lifter cam, the L71/L72 cam from the 425hp iron headed 1968 427. Just slightly less aggressive.
I have to get some special Victor Reinz gaskets to allow the MarkIV heads to fit the GenV block.

This engine should make close to original L88 hp, possibly around 450-525hp at the flywheel. Will be too much anyway for a manual HK GTS327 with 3.5 gears and 14x6 rims with skinny tyres. I have even got hold of aftemarket 427 badges that fit exactly where the 327 badges go!

[mauser]

bit hard to drive something like that as a manual.... My mate put a 454BB in a HQ and you stand on it with a Turbo400 and suddenly you have spun 180. Probably much easier with an auto. Would the powerglide work?

Mauser

[Alien DNA]

That's going to be a freaky ride on those skinny tyres Byron Gonna need some tweaking to compensate the handling with all that extra weight up front

Interesting project though

[HK1837]

M22 Muncie. I hate powerglides, TH350 are too weak for a 427 and TH400 won't fit. Remember this is a GTS327 type 1 in Warwick yellow. One of the first 3 or 4 made. So I don't want any floor or tunnel mods. Muncie is the only one that will fit. I still have the 3.5:1 XY GT-HO 9" that came with the red car so i'll use it until it breaks, and replace with a Moser 12 bolt that won't break.

[mauser]

What and run some type of hydraulic clutch setup? I can understand you dont want to modify the body for a large gearbox. Powerglides are ok if you just want to be the fastest person to 100k. :-)

All 6" cheesecutters and tramp rods for you then.

Were tramp rods standard on a HK327?.... I remember one back in the day having them and it was stock looking machine at the time. They took the 327 out of it and put it in an LJ GTR at the time and pushed the body out the back.



Mauser

[Vombil]

you speak a different language with this motor stuff. straight over my head! sounds pretty trick tho

[HK1837]

Original HT/G GTS350 11" bellhousing, fork, clutch slave and HK 3spd master and pipe. Hurst Indy modified to come out the factory holes. Shortened tonner tailshaft. I'll probably run big hoppers brakes and 18x8 V2II CV8 rims painted black and 15" black rims other times.

What and run some type of hydraulic clutch setup? I can understand you dont want to modify the body for a large gearbox. Powerglides are ok if you just want to be the fastest person to 100k. :-)

All 6" cheesecutters and tramp rods for you then.

Were tramp rods standard on a HK327?.... I remember one back in the day having them and it was stock looking machine at the time. They took the 327 out of it and put it in an LJ GTR at the time and pushed the body out the back.



Mauser

[HK1837]

Hope you're thinking of using at least one tailshaft loop

No, means butchering a GTS327 body. I won't be drag racing it. Just nice to build something GMH should have.They planned to put the LT1 engine into the HG GTS350, which is a 360hp, solid cam, 11.5:1 firebreather but I want to go one better than that. The last of the HG GTS350's were the equal of a phaseIII in 0-100 and 1/4 mile times so imagine another 60hp.

Ever since I saw a 1969 Dodge Charger with 440 blow away a full house w-rex at some lights one day i've wanted a big block coupe. The Charger wasn't even trying, he was shifting at like 4000rpm and the car had wedding ribbons on it! Also the Fast and the Furious 2 with the pretend-fast asian rubbish getting slaughtered by big block muscle inspried me a bit too. There is just something about a bright yellow or orange proper coupe (no B-pillar) with factory racing stripes or blackouts, sitting there idling like a tractor with twin 3.5" exhausts out the back, and a 3 digit badge or decal on the side with the first number being a 4. I could have built this as a 454 as I have all the crank and rods off this block, but 427 sounds better and is more period correct for a HK. I have thought about buying a big block Camaro or Impala, but I have the HK to restore so I thought why not do both in one car? Plus the stupidity that goes on with idiots carrying on about correct this and that, looking at dates codes on wingnuts etc on cars like XU-1 and GTS327/350, if I put this big block in this car they'll all shut up and leave it alone. My mate is thinking about doing something similar with his 1973 XU-1 (one of the 150 special cars). He's had enough about all the forensic stupidity, and is probably going to pull the XU-1 engine and M20 out and wrap it up on a pallet, and put a 308 and M21 into it. This way the idiots will leave it alone and go annoy someone else. I have full plans to make the HK look original inside and out, but not underneath. This is how I like my cars, it is how i'd restore a Sandman too ie stock body, interior and wheels but different driveline done without altering the body.

- - - Updated - - -

Were tramp rods standard on a HK327?....

Mauser

Yes, radius rods were standard on a HK GTS327. This is why they have factory installed wheel spacers as the D70 tyres on 6" rims rubbed on the radius rods. HT's got a different offset so didn't need the spacers.