Mrs Mook's HZ Prem

**mook** · 19-01-2013, 07:50 PM

Originally Posted by Taily

What if you completely unscrew the bleed nipple?

If nothing still comes out I'd be either looking for a crushed brakes line (possible, but would more act to give you a firm pedal) or a shagged master cylinder.

Question: If you pump the brakes with the engine running does the engine start to run rough? And, is there a small wet streak of fluid (or evidence there's been one) out of the back of the master cylinder down the front of the booster?

Dave.

Definite stain down the booster. I'll get a photo later to show this. But there is no leakage ATM.

**mook** · 19-01-2013, 07:57 PM

Also when the nipple is completely unscrewed nothing comes out, but when the line is cracked open it flowed freely ( I though the same thing about the crushed line or a blockage)

**Taily** · 19-01-2013, 08:35 PM

OK, stain down the booster can mean that the rear seal on the master cylinder is possibly sucking air - so one to watch.

What you're describing at the wheel cylinders sounds more like rust or something else has formed in the small hole at the end of the drilling for the bleed nipple. You might be lucky and get it to clear but I would personally just chuck a couple of new ones in. About a 20 minute job (once the drums are off) to replace each wheel cylinder. They'd be around $25 (or so) each to replace and, depending on the condition of the linings it might be just as easy to replace them too (that way the whole job is done for the next few years).

Have a real close look at the master cylinder and the condition of the fluid inside it. They sell for around $130 and are peace of mind and these days will last quite some time after replacement. Go easy on the fittings and you'll be right. You'll need to bench bleed the master cylinder before fitting it if you do replace it (which involves keeping it level in a vice, filling it front and back with fresh new brake fluid and slowly working the fluid into the working section of the cylinder with a phillips screwdriver (acting as the brake pedal plunger) while covering the fitting holes with your fingers. Messy but not difficult and don't get any brake fluid on any painted surface. If you do - DO NOT WIPE IT OFF! Use a hose or a watering can or similar to wash it off quickly, then wipe dry.

After fitting the rear wheel cylinders you'll then need to bleed ALL the brakes through properly. Make sure the master cylinder doesn't run dry while bleeding or you'll have to start again. Keep the lid loosely on top of the master cylinder (stops the fluid spurting back and all over the bonnet and windscreen etc), checking the level and topping-up every few bleeds.

I guess there is probably plenty of google info about it on the net....

Dave

**HK1837** · 19-01-2013, 08:59 PM

If you have an older master cylinder with the rear circuit on the rear, the new ones come with the rear cicuit on the front. So you have to bend the lines to fit or get some HZ ones off a car with the back to front cylinder from new. Or get an original rebuilt which is what i'm doing.

**mook** · 19-01-2013, 09:02 PM

Cheers Dave! I'll get onto it tomorrow. I'll attack the slaves first and go from there.

**mook** · 21-01-2013, 04:12 PM

Ahhhhh!
Replaced the offending slave cylinder which looked shocking! Completely corroded.

Then after doing a shabby bleed invoving a stick the master cylinder started to leak.

So off to sprints to grab another master cylinder. I bench bleed the cylinder using a acre driver into a lunch container before putting it on the car. And yes I did bust the lines between the master and the pro portioning cylinder thing. Very brittle lines!

So I'm currently sitting at power breakers waiting to fork out $80 for 2 new lines!

**mook** · 21-01-2013, 10:23 PM

The car is running and driving! well sort of anyway, i had to do the second slave cylinder as it wouldn't bleed.
The second one was out and in about 15 mins where the first one took about 2 hours! I have never done this before and i didn't have a book to reference. I worked out that I had put a shim/washer thing in around the wrong way on the first one that i noticed on the second one, so i went back and fixed it.

When Mrs Mook got home i got her to do the break pedal and i did the bleeding (is break fluid bad for your face?)

I can't get it to idle very smoothly (ie cruising up the parade at norwood wasn't as cool as i expected, stalled several times and was shuddering at low speeds) and i have an adjustable idle screw ready to put in. The one currently has the screw (with the flathead adjustment in the plastic sleeve). Is there an easy way to pull the sleeve out ready for the new one?

Cheers guys for the advice, especially [MENTION=114]ambientgoat[/MENTION] who received hourly updates today!

**wbute** · 21-01-2013, 10:26 PM

Brake fluid is good, puts hair on your chest.

**mook** · 21-01-2013, 10:27 PM

Originally Posted by wbute

Brake fluid is good, puts hair on your chest.

handy as i don't have any! (still waiting)

**HK1837** · 22-01-2013, 07:47 AM

It may be sucking air through the booster or through the trimatic's modulator. Disconnect each of these in turn with the car in drive and handbrake onto see if it idles properly (plug the manifold hole with your finger). Also make sure it has full vacuum advance to the dizzy, not ported vacuum. This increases the advance at idle to speed the engine up a bit to counter-act the torque converter action.