Page 1 of 4 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 36

Thread: Another Adjusting Problem on my WB!!!

  1. #1
    Sandman Driver 83 WB_Ute's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Northern NSW
    Posts
    487

    Another Adjusting Problem on my WB!!!

    Well here goes the next adjusting problem.. lol

    I have fitted a new clutch cable and adjusted it right up at the bell housing. After replacing it the clutch pedal seems very very short... I went to my manual and it said that the pedal should sit between 185.5mm and 190.5mm, mine is sitting at 111.5mm..

    How else could I adjust it to get the pedal higher??

    When the car is running and you push the clutch in, then when you go to change gears (column shift) it just grinds.. So I think the clutch is not engaging properly..

    But the strange thing is when the car is turned off you can't change it between gears, none at all.. Which suggests its something wrong with the linkages..

    I think that its a combination of the two, maybe the selectors are jambed up and that won't let me change gears at all.. While the clutch needs alot of adjusting to make the pedal the right height..

    So I'm open to any suggestions as to why it may be doing it, and how to fix it.. lol
    Cheers,
    Matt

    My WB Ute Build:
    http://www.mysandman.com.au/forums/s...te-Shed-Thread

    My HZ Sandman Panelvan Replica:
    http://www.mysandman.com.au/forums/s...nelvan-Replica


    WHERE ARE YOU BHZ29069A!?!?!?

  2. #2
    It's a rockin'
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    SA
    Posts
    1,067
    for some reason the new thrust bearings are shorter than the originals ,not by much but enough to cause problems and it does sound like your column is jammed to free it you need to pull on the rods under the bonnet ( i think its the one closest to the fire wall that causes the problem) it should just pop up easily

  3. #3
    Cruiser buck's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    albury / wodonga
    Posts
    358
    Quote Originally Posted by thatotherguy View Post
    for some reason the new thrust bearings are shorter than the originals ,not by much but enough to cause problems and it does sound like your column is jammed to free it you need to pull on the rods under the bonnet ( i think its the one closest to the fire wall that causes the problem) it should just pop up easily
    Also make sure the car is not resting or holding on the gear, otherwise you wont be able to pull the linkage up (if the linkages are jammed.)(normally between 1st and 2nd gear change Jamming)
    Also with the clutch mine was grinding gears when i first got it, but just adjusted it at the clutch fork to give it more throw as it was just off the floor when the clutch would engauge, now about nearly halfway out when clutch engauages. this was about 4-5 turns i think.
    Driver -1981 WB kingswood 253 4 speed
    Weekend- AC Cobra replica 302ho(425hp) 4 speed toploader
    Project Complete- SLR 5000 LH mock up(next door Neighbors)
    never late in a 5.0 litre

  4. #4
    Sandman Guru
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    6,451
    As above, you need to set them up at the clutch fork bal with bellhousing on before the box goes in. Make sure you didn't leave off the big washery looking bit off the bellhousing end of the cable ie left it on the old cable.

  5. #5
    Sandman Driver 83 WB_Ute's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Northern NSW
    Posts
    487
    Quote Originally Posted by thatotherguy View Post
    for some reason the new thrust bearings are shorter than the originals ,not by much but enough to cause problems and it does sound like your column is jammed to free it you need to pull on the rods under the bonnet ( i think its the one closest to the fire wall that causes the problem) it should just pop up easily
    Yeah, I have been reading up on it and have heard that the thrust bearing was the problem.. I sure as hell hope it isn't.. If it is it'll jsut give me an excuse to put the new reco motor in.. I've had to un-jamb the linkages before, I'll give it a go tomorrow..

    Quote Originally Posted by buck View Post
    Also make sure the car is not resting or holding on the gear, otherwise you wont be able to pull the linkage up (if the linkages are jammed.)(normally between 1st and 2nd gear change Jamming)
    Also with the clutch mine was grinding gears when i first got it, but just adjusted it at the clutch fork to give it more throw as it was just off the floor when the clutch would engauge, now about nearly halfway out when clutch engauages. this was about 4-5 turns i think.
    I was also thinking that, because the car was pushed to where it is sitting right now.. I'll move it abit and see how I go.. How do you adjust it at the clutch fork?? do you have to remove the gearbox or can it be done with the box in the car?? Is it strange if it wasn't doing it before I changed the clutch cable (the pedal did seem to have real short travel..)??

    Quote Originally Posted by HK1837 View Post
    As above, you need to set them up at the clutch fork bal with bellhousing on before the box goes in. Make sure you didn't leave off the big washery looking bit off the bellhousing end of the cable ie left it on the old cable.
    How do you adjust them up at the clutck fork?? What washery thing are you talking about?? The original cable didn't have a washer, but it had a radiator hose clip between the bell housing and the cable itself.. Looks like I may be after one of those washer thingos and the dust cover that covers the clutch fork opening..

    Let me know if any of you have one and want to get rid of them..

    Thanks for the help guys..
    Cheers,
    Matt

    My WB Ute Build:
    http://www.mysandman.com.au/forums/s...te-Shed-Thread

    My HZ Sandman Panelvan Replica:
    http://www.mysandman.com.au/forums/s...nelvan-Replica


    WHERE ARE YOU BHZ29069A!?!?!?

  6. #6
    It's a rockin'
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    SA
    Posts
    1,067
    sorry i didnt read it properly i thought you changed the clutch but you only changed the cable ? just make sure the new cable is identical to the old one maybe some one with a WB can put up some pics

  7. #7
    Sandman Driver 83 WB_Ute's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Northern NSW
    Posts
    487
    Quote Originally Posted by thatotherguy View Post
    sorry i didnt read it properly i thought you changed the clutch but you only changed the cable ? just make sure the new cable is identical to the old one maybe some one with a WB can put up some pics
    Yeah, only the cable cause the clutch was all good and I am going to put a 4speed and a new clutch in later.. The new cable was identical in length, but I have never seen the washer thing that HK1837 is refering to.. Anyone got pics of that???
    Cheers,
    Matt

    My WB Ute Build:
    http://www.mysandman.com.au/forums/s...te-Shed-Thread

    My HZ Sandman Panelvan Replica:
    http://www.mysandman.com.au/forums/s...nelvan-Replica


    WHERE ARE YOU BHZ29069A!?!?!?

  8. #8
    Sandman Guru
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    6,451
    Ignore what I said, I was thinking about V8, they have a big thick cone shaped washer on the end of the cable.

    You adjust the clutch fork pivot ball with the box out, and with the bellhouisng attached to the engine and all the clutch hooked up and working. It is a threaded rod with a ball on the end with a locknut on the shaft that locks it in place. If you have just changed the cable this probably won't be your problem though, but it may have already been there if other adjustments fail.

  9. #9
    Banned
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    4,463
    Was there a reason that you changed the cable?

  10. #10
    Sandman Driver 83 WB_Ute's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Northern NSW
    Posts
    487
    Quote Originally Posted by HK1837 View Post
    Ignore what I said, I was thinking about V8, they have a big thick cone shaped washer on the end of the cable.

    You adjust the clutch fork pivot ball with the box out, and with the bellhouisng attached to the engine and all the clutch hooked up and working. It is a threaded rod with a ball on the end with a locknut on the shaft that locks it in place. If you have just changed the cable this probably won't be your problem though, but it may have already been there if other adjustments fail.
    Cool, atleast I'm not missing something.. Righto, hopefully that doesn't need adjustment... I'm going to go and measure all the stuff and try to adjust the cable and see how I go..

    Thanks for the help..

    Quote Originally Posted by wbute View Post
    Was there a reason that you changed the cable?
    I replaced it because the old one was stretched to the shit house and was spaced buy a radiator hose clamp so it would work properly.. lol
    Cheers,
    Matt

    My WB Ute Build:
    http://www.mysandman.com.au/forums/s...te-Shed-Thread

    My HZ Sandman Panelvan Replica:
    http://www.mysandman.com.au/forums/s...nelvan-Replica


    WHERE ARE YOU BHZ29069A!?!?!?

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. HZ GTS dash clock adjusting knob and screw
    By Monman71 in forum Interior
    Replies: 18
    Last Post: 22-12-2014, 11:49 PM
  2. typing problem
    By HJRAY in forum The Lounge
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 07-06-2013, 12:24 AM
  3. M20-M21 Selecting 1st problem
    By Calum in forum Driveline
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 08-05-2013, 08:52 PM
  4. 308 Lifter Problem
    By chrisp in forum Engine
    Replies: 14
    Last Post: 21-03-2013, 11:13 PM
  5. Adjusting WB Door Windows..
    By 83 WB_Ute in forum Paint & Panel
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 05-07-2012, 08:45 PM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •