Just wondering where the best place to buy rust repair panels, i have heard mixed reveiws on the rare spares ones. Particulaly the full cowel, sills and quaters?
Has anyone had there van fully sand blasted? If so did it wreck it, i have also heard mixed reveiws
And does anyone no of a good panel beater/ spray painter in the ballarat area
Im in the ballarat area. I just had all the rust in my torana cut out and fixed by a bloke out in yendon who works from home. Does really really good quality stuff and fabricates all the metal himself. I have his number somewhere and he has a facebook site. It ended up costing me 4grand which was something like about 80 hours of work flat out. ill look it up when i get hom from work. I know of 3 good painters in town. One has a full workshop at a1 engineering and the other is in wendouree. Another works from home but takes ages and ages....
Home from work now and found his card. search supremos australia on facebook. Cheers,
Last edited by hainzy; 02-05-2012 at 01:24 PM.
when i had my HQ coupe fixed they didnt use any replacement panels they made everything themselves but it didnt need cowel panels
Nothing comes up for supremos australia?
http://www.mysandman.com.au/forums/s...k+soda+blaster
Have a look at this link, it may scare you after blasting, but it is necessary to clean up all the old paint and find out what is actually under there....we did soda blasting, and left the rear side panels as were worried it may warp them...we did use a rare spares repair panel for just behind the wheels on our ute, but the rest was cut out of Donors.
Cheers J
HZ Jasmine Yellow Windowless Sandman, now being driven everywhere and is finished!
HZ Madeira Red Windowless sandman now Sold to Bigrob
HX Mandarin Red Sandman Ute finished, and club registered
1979 HZ malachite windowless van with 308 5spd, all chromed up and shiny finished and named "The Player"
Married to RodneyHZ253
Oh its definatly necsesary on mine, but a panel beater i know reckons sand blasting heats up the panels to much and warps them
My sand blaster assures me it will be fine, he said he dosent like soda blasting because of the film it leaves. He says he uses some other abrasive thats not as harsh as the normal sand, so i think i will just go with that idea and leave the van sides like you have in the photos!
depends on who is holding that high pressure hose that shoots out the sand that is the worry!! we have all our bodies blasted and only by one guy(yarra valley blasting in coldstream vic) as most a few and far between.
did soda once, didnt like it as it didnt remove everything we wanted to get removed
prices will vary from blaster, but a good job in and out for a sedan(XY GT Type)costs around the $3k mark, with not a damaged panel anywhere
In Canberra AAA Sandblasting did my van. The panels along the side and inside he didnt remove all the red oxide but the paints gone and they are not damaged at all. He uses different compounds for different areas so as not to damage them. He did the entire car in bits and the inside of the back for about 1K.
Mauser
“485650 HQ's cant be wrong...”
“You don’t drive a Kingswood, you make love to it. That’s why nuns only drive Toranas.” - Ted Bullpitt
I can't add a lot when it comes to sandblasting, like many things it can be in the skill of the operator. I have had plastic parts stripped and pecan and walnut shell, it's much more gentle than sand or even aluminium oxide. However if I was doing the job I would have the car dipped. The car that way is de-rusted in all the areas that a sand or soda blaster can't get to. I think they use molasses, it strips the paint and rust. It will get right into all the joints and inside all of the difficult box panels like around the front windscreen. The car can then optionally then get coated with a temporary anti corrosive. I agree with the other poster than said you need to get the paint off to see what condition the metal is in. For me, so much work goes into top paint jobs, so I don't want to see a bubble of rust appearing in short order.Originally Posted by blownbudget19
The other product I like is the Penitrol CIP, it is a marine grade product and has a capillary effect so it will find it's way into nooks and crannies in very hard to get to areas and unlike fish oil it is a paint and quite tough. You can still use body cavity wax or fish oil over the Penitrol when it dries.
One other reason I don't like blasting is rust can form in all the little surface defects it creates, so much easier when you have nice smooth metal to deoxidiene. Don't forget to use a excellent etch primer for lasting anti corrosive staying power. I used to use only Glasurit but I don't think that expense is worth it these days, try Baslac, it is made in the same factory as Glasurit but roughly a third of the price. There is no proofie system for the Baslac so hence the lower price. The proofies are for colour matching btw. If you are interested in a cheap pearl, you can buy the raw ingredients to mix into your clear, they cost less than $20 although I haven't used them myself but I can't see why they wouldnt work. Good Luck.
Thanks guys, i think i will still get it blasted but not the big flat sides or the main parts on the roof.
Does anyone have any ideas on the repro panels? I have heard good things about old skool parts and panels in thomastown and wadingtons in castlemaine. They seem to do monaro stuff, not sure about vans. Any other places you guys can suggest?
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