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Thread: Etch/rust primer

  1. #1
    It's a rockin' Sandaro's Avatar
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    Etch/rust primer

    Hey everyone,

    Before a I get onto my sandman I'm doing a Valiant panelvan as a practice for panel and paint (and then use as an everyday driver part carrier).

    Intend on doing all the work in the shed, so acrylic paint is probably the way I will be going.

    Wanting some advice on etch primer to use on the shell. The previous owner had sanded a lot back to bare metal and then left it, so lots of surface rust. I am in the process of sanding it now and comes up pretty good and smooth but there are still little black dots (smaller than a pin head). Wondering whether I need to keep sanding/filing or whether I can just hit it with a rust inhibiting primer.

    I've used White Knight rust guard before under another car but not sure whether it is suitable for painting over with acrylic. It was excellent as a converter and even coating.

    Just wondering what products/ experience other people have had.

    Steve

  2. #2
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    Its a Valiant Steve, hit it with some lime green paint out of a Super Cheap pressure pack, hang some dice off the mirror and get a set of La-cucararcha air horns on it and buy a kebab to eat while your driving it!!!!

  3. #3
    It's a rockin' Sandaro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wbute View Post
    Its a Valiant Steve, hit it with some lime green paint out of a Super Cheap pressure pack, hang some dice off the mirror and get a set of La-cucararcha air horns on it and buy a kebab to eat while your driving it!!!!
    Haha. Yes that had been my thoughts too, but wanted to get some advice first. Will hit supercheap up for 20 pressure packs this arvo.

    Steve

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  5. #5
    Sandman Driver V6HQUTE's Avatar
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    when i was doing the cowls and back window of my ute it had little black dots, the pannel beater said to sandblast it becasue it was rust, so i did the whole goove the windscreen goes in, roof sills and most of the back window sill, more precactionary than anything, treated the back window with rust converter aswell because it was a bit deeper rust

  6. #6
    Night Rider Vombil's Avatar
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    im doing a bonnet at the moment that sounds far worse. Ive paint stripped it and was still left with two coats of some nasty shit underneath. One is black, the other dark maroon. standing on it with 36grit even struggled to get that crap off! anyways came down to 80 then 120 and was still left with some nice big rust pits. Rust killed the lot and sanded excess rust kill off with 120 again. Then hit it with 2 fairly light coats of 1K etch and now im gonna bomb 2K spray putter over the etch.

    Your rust sounds pretty superficial. Id just hit it with 80-150 on a grinder/buff pad, then etch the lot and then spray putty and block it back before primer.

    Ive heard that 2k primer has incredible bonding qualities and is good to use on bodgy rust repairs straight after rust kill. So grind back, rust kill, 2k primer > then bog, spray putty and then prime.

    Also you might want to give 2K a go even if its in your shed. far less prep required (ie paint straight over 320) and tonnes less buffing. I know the finish isnt ridgy didge old skool but its far less work and believe it or not... the 2k ive been quoted is almost 1/3 the price of acryilc!
    BQZ

  7. #7
    Leadfoot 1BadVan's Avatar
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    I think this has come up before. 2K is nasty stuff I wouldn't go spraying it in a shed. 2K products are definetly better than 1k though. My prefered way is to spot sandblast the areas. You can get sandblasters that have a rubber nozzle that you push onto the panel and the sand simply recirculates around. Note if not careful this can still raise the metal. Next step 1K etch prime nothing even comes close to Wattyl super etch for superior grip and corrosion properties except 2K. Note you can't do filling work over any 1K product. Ps the Wattyl super etch will handle 2K primers over it. What I generally do is strip the panel and etch prime if I am not going to do the repairs straight away, next step is the repairs, if I don't finish them in one go I re etch prime (I just leave it in the gun so it's always ready). I generally finish my repairs of in 120 grit dry, too smooth no adhesion too rough lots more chance for sink backs. When finished apply whatever Hi fill or spray putty you like. Hope this helps.

    Cheers Dave

  8. #8
    It's a rockin' Sandaro's Avatar
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    Thanks for the replies so far. I will look at some old threads re 2K v alcylic, but I think I had formed the view on not doing 2k based on what Dave has said above. But then if it is possible in a shed (with adequate safety precautions) maybe I shouldn't rule it out.

    Steve

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