I went to adjust the brakes on the van yesterday and found them to be really, really spongy. I have a new master cylinder (thats been bled)....new pipes, new hoses (no leaks in either) new front rotors, rebuild calipers and new pads. The rear has new wheel cylinders, linings and drums.
I bled the system again and nipped up the rears....still spongy and the pedal almost hits the floor.
The only bits I haven't replaced are the pedal and booster.
Any thoughts?????
Last edited by GTS; 22-08-2011 at 01:39 PM.
What was your bleeding procedure?
What type of master cylinder (metal or plastic reservoir)?
All alloy master cylinder. Bled L/H Front then R/h front....L/H rear then R/H rear.
rear wheel cylinders in hq to hz are different to wb for what its worth...spongy is usually not the booster... is it running the hq hj booster with the hq hj pedal as hx hz booster and pedal are different so if you mix a hqj booster with a hxz pedal it does not align and vice versa.
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bleeding should be done left rear right rear left front right front..try re bleeding as you will still have air in the system causing spongy brakes.Originally Posted by GTS
As Greg says. Plus make sure your master cylinder is not arse about. Later ones have the small (rear circuit) reservoir at the front but they don't move the brake line connection thread with it. The new cylinder I got for my HJ Premier was like that.
When you bleed and think you are finished removing all air from each bleed point you have to get someone to hold their foot on the pedal before you do up the bleed point.
The master cylinder has a large resevoir at the back (small tube nut) and a smaller one up front (large tube nut). I have the front res hooked up to the front brakes and rear res to the rear brakes.
Last edited by GTS; 22-08-2011 at 03:10 PM.
You can also try clamping the 3 flexible lines and see if that improves the pedal,if it doesnt its in the master cylinder.If the pedal does improve take off 1 clamp at a time and check pedal.This will indicate which brake is causing the problem.
Also when bleeding the brakes dont press pedal all the way to floor as seals in master cylinder can be turned on themselves.
Hope this helps.
Cheers FEWY
with the money spent on these cars and the ease of buying the right tools everyone should have a self bleeder which can then be done with one person and does not involve pressing down of the pedal and ruining older seals...also from what gts has posted they have been bled in the wrong order..furthest away from master cylinder working towards master..also what byron has said has also caught me out once..not all masters have the reservoir for the rear brakes at the rear of the master cylinder..got me good and there was some serious head scratching at the time..
Last edited by jennie285; 22-08-2011 at 06:10 PM.
I originally had the front res to the rear and the rear res to the front. I swapped them around yesterday because the rear brakes were locking up for no apparent reason....which they don't do now with front res to front and rear to rear.
Having said that, the pedal was no better that way either.
Last edited by GTS; 22-08-2011 at 08:16 PM.
if there is too much air in the system then the pressure will go to the rear and lock them up..re bleed the system from rear to front which is the way it should be done and see what happens next.
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