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Thread: 5.7 and auto into HZ

  1. #1
    P Plater James's Avatar
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    5.7 and auto into HZ

    Question for the gurus...and I believe there's a couple out there...
    The opportunity has come up to purchase a 5.7l and auto with low k's and the price is right.
    I want to fit to an HZ...has anyone done this before or know of any major dramas that could be encountered.
    Will be rego'd in Qld.
    I would appreciate any advice

  2. #2
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    Holden 5.7/350 or GM 5.7/346? Very different animals and levels of difficulty to fit.

    --- Updated ---

    Here is a few pictures on this thread for an LS1:

    http://www.aussiev8.com.au/conversio...now-turbo.html

  3. #3
    P Plater James's Avatar
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    It's a WH (I think) statesman, 2003 model.

  4. #4
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    So LS1. Lots of hard work, but it can be done. There are places that sell adapter harnesses etc eg Castle Auto Electrics in Victoria. The conversion is significantly harder than a Holden 5.7, but probably worth it in the end hp wise. If it was me I'd just buy a whole VR or VS (except late VSIII) engine and auto box and stroke it to 5.7L. Will bolt straight in using HQ-WB sump, pickup, engine mounts etc. Just needs a TH350 gearbox crossmember slightly modded and a shortened tailshaft. Electrics and fuel is relatively easy, but the time consuming part.

  5. #5
    P Plater James's Avatar
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    Thanks for that info. This engine in question has only 116000km so that was what had me interested and price is $3500 for engine and gearbox and all accessories. This way I would get away without rebuilding anything versus buying the older VR VS and having to rebuild components. However, "lots of hard work" vs "will bolt straight in" might help me make a decision towards the easier way.

    Just got prices for conversion kit and $2700 for LS1 vs $775 for 5 litre
    Last edited by James; 29-03-2011 at 09:51 AM. Reason: conversion kits

  6. #6
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    You won't get out of it much cheaper with the LS1, but if you are handy you can do a lot of the Holden V8 conversion yourself. If you use a later Holden V8 engine, some are actually younger than the LS1's. VSIII were sold new into 2000 and overlapped the LS1's. You can still pick up low kM engines out of wrecks with 100,000kM or less especially from HSV VT and VSIII Maloo, so you might pick up a 195kW (304), 200kW (304) or 220kW (350). These will go in just as easily but have a few quirks that make them slightly dearer to install like twin O2 sensors.

    However, $2700 plus $3500 isn't all that much for an LS1. Give it a cold air intake, single 3.5" exhaust (will set you back $1500+ with hi flow cats) and a tune and it'll pump out 280kW+ as an auto.

    Is it going in a HZ commercial or HZ passenger vehicle? If it is a ute it might be cheaper to just go out and buy an LS1 powered VU-VY ute or 1-tonner?

  7. #7
    P Plater James's Avatar
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    Will be for my wagon, the original running gear is due for some work (253 trimatic) so figure an engine and trans upgrade is the way to go. I'm not too worried about big HP figures but that does sound like it could be fun!
    I reckon I can do most of the work myself so the easiest conversion would be best. By easiest I mainly mean less time consuming.

  8. #8
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    Wagon is a piece of cake, you can use a Commodore fuel tank with in-tank pump. PM me and i'll send you some info.

  9. #9
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    I am almost complete on the 6 litre conversion into my HQ. I may be able top help out with some information.

    Do not use an aftermarket sump, use a camaro LS1 sump, pickup and windage tray, engine will bolt straight in.
    ( this sump is cast alloy and helps with block Strength )
    Try and use and internal pump setup as in the standard LS2 fuel pump. This pump regulates the pressure internally, saves the running of a second Line ( return fuel Line to the tank ) and will prevent you from needed a surge tank set up with lift pump etc.

    Castle Automotive parts including engine mount conversion kit fit reasonably well- they utilize V8 HK-HT rubber engine mounts- available over the counter.

    Aircon pump will need to be relocated as it fouls on the crossmember and steering box.

    Thermostat housing need to be modified to clear steering box also, I have had some of these cnc made.

    Hope this helps.

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