So all in all im starting to write down how much it's going to cost to do the things i want done to my car... So im looking for the price to get a car resprayed and ways possibly to make it cheaper for my self. So any tips? i can probably strip it down to metal by myself. but just looking for ways to make it cheaper for myself like taking the panels of etc and sending them in..
The easiest way to save bulk $ on a paint job is to buy a straight, rust free car in the first place. That is why I pointed you to that WB. Hierachy of choices is:
1. Buy a rust free, straight car.
2. Buy a rust free car with dents.
3. Buy a straight car with rusty panels and replace panels.
4. Buy a straight rusty car, replace rusty panels and repair body.
5. As above but dented also.
You'll save 40% on a paint job if you buy no.1. So drop from $10,000 to $6,000 (this is for a quality 2 pack paint job, not show quality).
If you paint strip it yourself you might say another $1,000.
These are just random numbers, so can vary wildly depending upon multiple factors. What i'm trying to convey is buy the right car first, not the cheapest or the most pretty/shiny. That WB appeared to be a 1.5 - it had a few marks here and there like the bodgy tail-gate locks.
the last car i painted a couple of years ago was my sons vn ute..2 tone paint,we did not strip it back to bare metal..materials alone was around $1600...
this was also 2 types of metallic paints and clear to go over that..so dearer than a solid colour...
ok so straight body it is.. what is the best way to tell if a body is straight without having to put plum drops everywhere? im tossing up between the following two
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/HOLDEN-WB-PAN...item27b8f11ba0
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Holden-Panelv...item1c1988ee35
Go and look at it with an experienced person with the series or a panel beater. There is really no other way.
Even if you have an experienced person with you, you still cant see what is under the paint......I found that out with my "rust free" van....that only took 3 hours a day for 5 months to repair.
I have always found that the old fashioned fridge magnet trick is good at checking for under paint issues.
See if the fridge magnet sticks or falls of the usual spots. Above wheel arches, rear quarters, sills, door bottoms, etc.
It wont pick up everything but when it doesn't stick theres some filler going on there.
Ask them to soda blast it first, then you will see how much rust is under the paint, and bog...:sick::Texas::weights::Tongue: (if only)
We never imagined there was so much rust under the paint on the yellow van.....
HZ Jasmine Yellow Windowless Sandman, now being driven everywhere and is finished!
HZ Madeira Red Windowless sandman now Sold to Bigrob
HX Mandarin Red Sandman Ute finished, and club registered
1979 HZ malachite windowless van with 308 5spd, all chromed up and shiny finished and named "The Player"
Married to RodneyHZ253
You can usually tell a "goodun" for some vehicles ie good the body is, normally when they have original paint or very old paint. Hard to explain in words, but you can. Just like how you use your hands to feel that a panel is straight when you are file finishing it. Not sure how many here understand what i'm talking about, I know Greg will. I know I can walk up to an old Holden or Torana and just know that it has a good original body, but it has to be old or original paint. This is why I say don't buy pretty or shiny old cars. Always buy the ones with faded and over-polished paint. Look past the bling at the core of the vehicle. Like our mums always told us to do with people, and we still dated the local bimbo (or at least had a crack!).
I have a look at the panel joins and folds also. I've seen plenty of bog work were they didn't really match the original join of the car. The Sills on vans/utes are a good example.
The door frame on my sandman is what gave away to me that the whole side of the thing thing was bog. The lip where the quaterer panel came in and attached to the door frame was too smooth. Drove a screwdriver in 2 inches of bog before I found the original door frame that had been caved in from a nice prang. (don't remember you try this on a car that's no yours tho, hehe)
Or if you're lucky like my wagon, they don't use quite the right shade on repairs, so the bits are the lighter green in the right light are "X marks the spot" for dodgy repairs.
Also remember, that rust seems to be a little bit like an iceberg. That little rust bubble can be a big drama under the paint.
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