do you need a tap if you were to run this set up?
I'm sure that once everything was up to running temp the heater box would run fine..?
I'm trying to set up the engine bay as a super clean wireless factory look, this is my justification for the slightly abnormal heater setup.
Can you get an electric heater core because that would make me even happier!
Heater tap = yes. All air that is drawn through the fan goes through the heater core whether or not the heater has been selected on or not. The heater tap position determins how much hot water is flowing through the heater core and therefore the temp of the air exiting the heater box. Same deal for aircon except it also has to pass through the evaporator.Originally Posted by mook
An option that I have seen is a pair of 5/8 inch tubes that route the water against the block below the exhaust and enter the heater box upwards against the firewall via rubber heater hose. The heater tap was a cable operated type attached to the firewall rigged to operate in correct sense. A lot of stuffing around but the guy who owned it thought it was worth it.
You can buy just about everything else, so why wouldn't you be able to rig a 12V heater together? There'd have to be something out there you could adapt if you wanted to go that far. As long as you're careful with the amount of heat they can generate near your plastic heaterbox...
Regards,
Dave
Nunc est bibendum...
I suppose the water for the heater was taken from the thermostat housing so the motor could warm up quicker, rather than trying to heat the heater core as well. Probably makes no difference though really. You need a tap otherwise your heater core will always be hot and its going to heat your cab up as a result, summer and winter.
No idea on electric heater, might be available.
No doubt someone could fit extra outlets on your radiator (for heater hoses) somewhere and you could hide the heater hoses more easily then.
you can buy small electric heaters ,hot rodders use them or you can adapt a 12 volt hair dryer but you will need a high output alternator as they will draw a fair bit of power . if you need help just pm me i am available all next weekend
Cheers guys. I was out after work and got 3 free Holden's 2 HQ's and an HX. Good times!
--- Updated ---
I did a bit of Looking on the web and that's what I found, the other thing that I saw was ceramic heaters. Don't know the difference between the two.. Maybe one is more controlled temperature wise. And could have less radiant heat..
Mook,
Electric Vehicle guys use electric heaters. (No combustion engine for water)
I have seen them use a ceramic heater core. Bunnings sell little cube ones for about $20. If you pull it to bits they have a little electric core about the same size as your original core. The problem is you don't have 110volts, EV guys usually do. You could get an inverter to run it but the inverter may need to be able to output 750 for low or 1800 watts or more for high making it not the cheap type of inverter and needing large cables direct from the battery.
From what I know these heaters are fairly dumb as to how they like their power. They definitely are OK with DC so maybe you could get enough current to it via 12v with really big cables that will cope with 60+ amps directly from the battery and a high power starter motor type relay.
or
You could try pulling 2 or 3 of these to bits and wire them in with a decent cable. They are 150 watts each.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/12V-CAR-V...ht_3312wt_1270
Last edited by TwoTees; 04-06-2012 at 07:23 PM.
Too add guys I just picked up an HX prem wagon and a HQ sedan.
Anyone looking for parts please contact me..
Ok back into the rebuild of the van...
When I swung the trans in (t400) I found swarf around the input where the stall converter locks in. This means that I'll have to get the trans pulled down and looked at before i get it all running. There are other complications with the t400, which is that I will also be running with column shift and I'm sure that it is going to be a pain to fit it all with the Pacemaker PH5220 Extractors that i already have. Now here is the tricky bit...
I'm trying to get the van completed by the end of November at a limited cost.
I'm starting to think that I could yank the trimatic box off the 253 and swing it straight in the van and hook up the PH5220 extractors to the engine, but will they fit? Has anyone got any experience with this?
The other option is to run with the poxy extractors on the wagon and try to use the existing exhaust so that I'm not doubling up on exhaust costs.
With the trimatic box the column shift will be alot easier as well...
hi mook the motor in your van is probably t400 pattern so a trimatic wont just bolt up to it , i would leave it in and get it running first and see if there are any problems , you have done a fantastic job on your van and it would be a shame to start cutting corners now and i would use an aftermarket shifter and if you want to go with bench seat just get your trimmer to modify it to suit a floor shift or just put standard exhaust manifolds on it. ps when is the wrecking yard going to be open again ?
the t400 is trimatic pattern, ill put up pics when I pull it out. i would like to get a properly converted bell housing when i get it looked at. surly swarf cant be good in the trans?
It would only be a temporary mod, just can't afford to spend all the coin atm and the trimatic would be a very cheap solution. I would love to have the van ready for my wedding.... cough cough.. if all else fails i can drive off into the sunset. lol
the hq is going on ebay tonight 99c auction. always fun! if you need more bits ill grab them before it sells.
cheers for the props btw. there is a very clean looking 253 here still, goat grabbed the manifold (8.5/10), oh so clean inside.
Last edited by mook; 10-09-2012 at 05:03 PM.
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