Remove motor

[Blocker]

I'm at the stage where I would like to remove my motor (253) and gearbox.

I have removed the front guards and radiator support so plenty of access, but I have a couple questions.

1. Should I pull the motor with gearbox attached - would this be easier?
2. How do I do it? haha.

Are there any online documents that could show me how to remove the motor & gearbox?

Also I went looking for the chasis number but didn't know specifically where to look, could someone tell me please?

Thanks.

[wbute]

I dont think you will have the clearance in the tunnel to lift motor and box out together. Cant remember for sure. The gear box will be harder to pull out than the engine.
Are you pulling the body off as well? If you are pull the motor out after its off. It would have to be 1000 times easier.

[wbute]

I remember now, undo the bolts in the bell housing and support the gearbox from underneath. Undo engine mounts, exhaust etc etc. find a way of slinging motor with chains or straps. I think I bolted the chains to exhaust stud holes from memory. I slung mine with an endless chain and gantry but if you have an engine crane that would be better. Be careful when separating the gearbox that the clutch doesnt foul up with the input shaft on the gearbox as they come apart.
There would be other ways and probably better ways but that worked for me.

[wbute]

Chassis no. should be next to the steering box. I say "should" because it isnt on my chassis and I have another chassis here without one as well. If anyone could suggest why its not there and what to do about it that would be good.

[hzvan]

you can take motor and box out all as one if you have removed radiator support
just have to get the balance right for the angle
i did this to remove and replace them in my van buy myself
easer to unbolt bellhousing or line clutch and gearbox on the floor with out trying to lay under van and do it
steve

[Absinth]

With the front sheet metal off the engine and box come out easily as one unit. I slip a trolley jack in from the front and support the box with it, then drop the crossmember, lift the engine a couple of inches and lower the jack a little, lift and lower until you get the right angle to clear everything as you either push the car backwards or wheel the engine crane and jack back from the front of the car.... once the box has cleared the firewall you can balance it all by hand as you move the engine and box the rest of the way out.

I have two inlet manifold studs with chain links welded to the heads, screw these in place at opposing corners and then you can attach a short length of chain to them with a couple of U shackles then hook around the chain with the chain winch or engine crane hook and off you go...

[wbute]

Ah... very clever. I will try that on the sandman I think.

[Blocker]

Thanks for the tips guys... keep them coming. I'm fortunate to have a pit (although it is outside) I can use that as well if need be.
But I like Absinth's method if I fail at that then I roll it to the pit and go 'traditional'.

[Absinth]

Just make sure you remove the shifter and linkages before you start.... I've pulled sixes and eights out plenty of times with boxes attached... piece of cake.

[adam perth]

swing it motor and box.

drain water out of motor - then move into place where you are going to lift the motor. - otherwise you will be laying in water.

put a dummy yoke in box first, or drain oil first.

you can change motor and box with just the bonnet off if you want, you don't need to remove rad support.

use the bonnet bolts in the heads adjacent to each other with a short chain.

watch that the rear of the 4 sp extension housing doesn't catch and break on the lip on the trans tunnel / firewall - easy to do if your not careful.

have a tyre on the ground ready to land the motor and box onto when it comes out otherwise you will end up with a beat up sump.